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Candles flicker in the windows of this welcoming restaurant set by the river. It’s run by a passionate chef-owner and his bright, friendly team, and is a real hit with the locals. Regional ingredients feature in good value dishes which are carefully cooked and full of natural flavours.

Superstar chef Gary O’Hanlon has described John Coffey, of Thyme Restaurant, as “the most underappreciated chef in the country.” But, in the year just passed, it seems the acclaim Mr Coffey deserves has come his way: media attention; bib gourmands; an overnight sensation, after only a dozen years in business.

Lunch at Thyme was really superb value given just how well we’d eaten, and the effort that had gone in to sourcing really excellent ingredients from Irish suppliers.